Cashmere is a luxurious textile that is highly sought-after for its softness, warmth, and durability. At DOLEN, we understand that customers may have concerns about the process of harvesting cashmere and its impact on the goats.
To address these concerns, we'd like to explain how the cashmere collecting process works. Cashmere goats have two coats, an outer layer of long, coarse guard hairs and an undercoat of soft and downy fibers.
When is cashmere collected?
The cashmere fibers are obtained from the undercoat, which is naturally shed by the goats in the spring as the weather warms up.
In Inner Mongolia, it normally happens in May.At this time, the goats are typically combed or sheared to collect the fibers.
First method is Combing. Combing is the preferred method, as it results in longer and higher-quality fibers.
What are common methods to collect cashmere ?
Combing is the preferred method, as it results in longer and higher-quality fibers. The combing process involves using a specialized comb that is designed to gently remove the soft undercoat without damaging the coarser outer coat. The comb is typically made of metal and has fine teeth that are spaced closely together. The comb is passed through the goat's coat in a gentle and methodical manner, carefully separating the soft undercoat from the rest of the coat. This process does not cause any harm or discomfort to the goat, as it is a natural part of their seasonal shedding process.
Tools to comb the goat
Shearing, on the other hand, involves using a pair of scissors or clippers to remove the entire coat of hair from the goat, including the outer guard hairs and the soft undercoat. This method can be quicker and more efficient, but it can also result in lower-quality fibers, as the outer guard hairs can contaminate the soft undercoat. Shearing can also cause stress and discomfort to the goat, as it involves cutting off all of its hair at once.
Does it hurt goat?
Herders in Inner Mongolia has long tradition to harvest cashmere from goat, it is not only beneficial for human, it is also good for goat if done ethically. Cashmere goats have a natural shedding process where they shed their undercoat in the spring and grow a new coat in the fall. If the undercoat is not removed regularly, it would become too thick and matted, which can cause a number of problems. One of the most obvious problems is discomfort for the goat. The matted and tangled fur can pull on the goat's skin, causing it to feel itchy and uncomfortable. This can lead to the goat scratching and biting at its own skin in an attempt to relieve the discomfort, which can cause further irritation and even infection.
In addition to discomfort, a matted undercoat can also make it more difficult for a goat to regulate its body temperature. The tangled fur can prevent air from circulating around the goat's skin, which can cause it to overheat in warm weather and become too cold in cold weather. This can lead to a range of health problems, including dehydration, heat stroke, and hypothermia.
Collecting cashmere properly can contribute to the maintenance of good health conditions for goats, thus ensuring their quality of life.
How to sort grade cashmere fibers?
After the cashmere fibers have been collected, they undergo a rigorous sorting process to ensure that they are of the highest quality. The sorting process is typically done by hand, as it requires skilled labor to carefully examine each fiber and remove any impurities, such as dirt, debris, and coarse hairs.
Raw cashmere fibers
This process is time-consuming and demanding, as it requires a high level of attention to detail and a keen eye for spotting imperfections. The fibers are carefully examined and sorted based on their color, length, thickness, and overall quality. The sorting process is crucial to ensure that the final product is of the highest quality, as any impurities or low-quality fibers can affect the overall softness, warmth, and durability of the finished product.
Once the fibers have been sorted, they are carefully graded based on their quality. This involves assigning a grade to each batch of fibers based on their color, length, and overall quality. The highest-grade fibers are typically the softest, longest, and thinnest, and are highly sought after by manufacturers.
The sorting and grading process is essential to the cashmere industry, as it ensures that only the highest quality fibers are used to make cashmere products.
How to clean cashmere fibers ?
After the fibers have been sorted, they are ready to be cleaned and washed to remove any remaining impurities. This process is crucial as it helps to ensure that the final product is of the highest quality. Typically, the fibers are soaked in water and then washed with a gentle detergent or soap. During the washing process, the fibers are carefully agitated and massaged to remove any dirt, dust, or grease that may still be present. This process requires great care, as excessive agitation or rough handling can damage the delicate fibers.
Once the fibers have been thoroughly washed, they are rinsed several times to remove any soap residue. This is important because any leftover soap can weaken the fibers or cause skin irritation in people who wear clothing made from the cashmere. After rinsing, the fibers are squeezed gently to remove excess water and then laid out to dry.
The drying process is critical because it can impact the final texture and quality of the cashmere. To prevent any damage or stretching, the fibers are carefully laid out and left to air dry. In some cases, the fibers may be dried using specialized equipment to ensure that they dry evenly and without any damage. Once the fibers are completely dry, they are ready to be spun into yarn.
How to spun yarn——worsted spinning?
After the fibers have been cleaned and dried, they are ready to be processed into yarn. This process involves spinning the fibers into a fine and smooth yarn that is suitable for use in a wide range of clothing and accessories.
After the cashmere fibers have been cleaned and dried, they are ready to be spun into yarn. The yarn spinning process is crucial as it determines the quality and durability of the final product. The traditional method used to spin cashmere yarn is known as worsted spinning.
Worsted spinning involves aligning the fibers in a parallel fashion, so that they are all facing the same direction. This process ensures that the resulting yarn is smooth, even, and strong. The fibers are then twisted together tightly to create a yarn that is highly resistant to pilling and other forms of wear and tear.
Yarns
The worsted spinning method produces a high-quality, durable yarn that is suitable for a variety of uses, from clothing to accessories. The resulting yarn is also incredibly soft and lightweight, making it ideal for use in luxury garments. The spinning process requires skill and precision, and is typically done by experienced artisans who have honed their craft over many years.
DOLEN's Commitments
DOLEN exclusively partners with farms that practice ethical and meticulous operations, which are inspected regularly during harvest season to verify that goats are not subjected to harsh shearing methods and are not kept in cramped conditions that could harm their health. Meanwhile, our products are crafted from the highest quality grade cashmere yarns that are responsibly sourced, ensuring the softest and warmest materials while minimizing environmental impact.
We believe that every consumer has the right to know how their products are made. That's why we prioritize ethical and sustainable practices, and we encourage customers to choose brands that share these values. By making informed purchasing decisions, customers can help to protect animal welfare and the environment. At DOLEN, we're committed to transparency and responsible sourcing, and we hope to earn our customers' trust and loyalty through our commitment to quality and sustainability.